The end of retail therapy?

 

  

 

    Stifani Herpich is fashion and experience designer and PhD candidate. She works as a lecturer and researcher at Breda University of Applied Sciences. 

Retail therapy and the instant gratification loop

Leisure scholars have associated leisure to consumption and consumerism (Roberts, 2008; Stebbins, 2020). Shopping has long been positioned as a key leisure activity in consumer societies, offering not just the thrill of acquiring new items but also an engaging, sensory experience. Malls and shopping streets are designed to be inviting spaces for social interaction, entertainment, and escape, reinforcing the idea that consumption is a pleasurable way to spend free time. Beyond its recreational appeal, shopping also taps into powerful psychological mechanisms. While retail therapy is not widely explored in research, some studies show that it triggers a dopamine rush, providing a temporary sense of excitement, control, and relief, as well as connection to overall well-being (Lee and Böttger, 2017). However, while this instant gratification can offer short-term emotional regulation, the long-term consequences could be less satisfying. Many shoppers experience buyer’s remorse when the initial high fades, realising that their purchases were impulsive or unnecessary. Over time, frequent emotional spending can lead to excessive clutter, contributing to stress rather than alleviating it, and in more severe cases, financial strain and compulsive disorders. As awareness of these patterns grows, more consumers are reconsidering their shopping habits, seeking fulfilment beyond the fleeting satisfaction of material acquisitions.

Voluntary simplicity and frugality as a path to well-being

The rise of voluntary simplicity reflects a growing movement towards more intentional and mindful consumption, emphasising sufficiency over excess. It involves consciously reducing material consumption, prioritising meaningful experiences, and valuing well-being over accumulation. This shift is largely influenced by cultural and economic factors, including increasing awareness of sustainability issues, financial pressures, and the growing appeal of minimalist aesthetics. In the context of fashion, scholars on slow fashion emphasise that sustainable consumption involves shifting pleasure from acquiring clothing to enjoying its use (Freudenreich & Schaltegger, 2020). This perspective challenges the traditional consumer mindset, advocating for a deeper appreciation of clothing longevity and mindful ownership rather than constant replacement.

Retail therapy, the act of shopping to enhance mood or relieve stress, has become a cultural norm.

Over the past few decades, lifestyle trends promoting reduced consumption have gained and lost popularity, reflecting society’s evolving relationship with material goods. Movements such as the zero-waste home (2010), minimalist living (2015), and the recent underconsumption core micro-trend (2024), illustrate the ascension of frugal behaviour as a morally virtuous behaviour. These trends often emerge as responses to economic constraints and environmental concerns, with individuals seeking alternatives to mass consumerism and fast-paced consumption patterns. However, despite the increasing discourse on reduction and sufficiency, voluntary simplicity is still often viewed as a niche lifestyle choice rather than a widespread norm.

Photo: Nudie Jeans

A key challenge to sustainable consumption is the paradox of consumer behaviour, particularly in fashion. While awareness of sustainability is increasing, fast fashion continues to thrive, particularly among Generation Z consumers, who are the primary audience for ultra-fast fashion brands, such as Shein and Temu. Research suggests that affordability, social media influence, and the desire for variety drive their consumption patterns (Makkar & Spry, 2024). This dynamic underscores the complexity of aligning ethical values with purchasing habits in a digital age where trends evolve rapidly, and instant gratification is a key motivator. Nevertheless, frugal leisure practices such as clothing swaps, second-hand shopping, and experience-based consumption are emerging as alternatives to traditional retail therapy. These activities offer the joy of novelty and self-expression without contributing to overconsumption, signalling a shift towards more sustainable and conscious leisure choices.

The business response: sufficiency models and alternative value creation

As concerns over environmental impact and resource depletion grow, businesses are increasingly exploring sufficiency-driven circular business models to promote sustainable consumption. These models seek to moderate overall resource use by curbing excessive demand through education, consumer engagement, and innovative strategies (Bocken & Short, 2016). Unlike traditional circular models that focus primarily on recycling, sufficiency-based approaches prioritise refuse, reduce, and rethink strategies, encouraging consumers to buy less and value longevity over disposability. To integrate sufficiency principles, businesses must consider key elements such as purpose, ownership, finance, governance, networks, scale, and impact (Bocken & Short, 2016). By encouraging a shift in consumption patterns, sufficiency-based businesses can create new forms of value that go beyond the immediate sale of goods. In this context, leisure can take on a redefined role, offering pleasures derived from experiences of care and mindful engagement.

Many shoppers experience buyer’s remorse when they realise that their purchases were impulsive or unnecessary.

Some companies have already embraced slower, more intentional production and consumption models, proving that sustainability and profitability can coexist. For example, the denim brand Nudie Jeans produces high-quality jeans designed to improve with wear, emphasising durability and uniqueness over time. The brand also offers free repairs and sells refurbished jeans, reinforcing a circular approach to fashion. Similarly, The Seam connects customers with skilled craftspeople for garment repairs, fostering a culture of care and longevity using social media. Dutch designer Jolie Jolink takes sustainability further by integrating regenerative practices into her collections, even purchasing a farm to support her radically transparent and sustainable fashion model. These businesses leverage reuse, product longevity, and conscious sales as core strategies to drive sufficiency while maintaining financial stability.

However, despite the growing interest in sufficiency-driven business models, further research is needed to develop innovative designs tailored to the textile industry (Freudenreich & Schaltegger, 2020). The transition to a sufficiency-based circular economy will require collaboration between businesses, consumers, and policymakers to ensure long-term success.

Conclusion: rethinking leisure for long-term contentment

Redefining leisure in the context of fashion beyond material acquisition is essential for a more sustainable and fulfilling way of living. Rather than equating happiness with endless consumption, embracing intentional and mindful consumption can lead to greater well-being by prioritising experiences, creativity, and long-term value over instant gratification. By shifting the focus from acquiring to appreciating, individuals can cultivate deeper satisfaction while reducing environmental impact. Businesses, too, have a crucial role to play by adopting sufficiency-driven models that encourage durability, reuse, and transparency. Moving forward, consumers can support this shift by making more conscious purchasing decisions, seeking joy in non-material experiences, and advocating for responsible business practices. Likewise, companies can align with evolving consumer values by designing products and services that promote longevity and meaningful engagement. As we collectively move toward a more mindful and purpose-driven approach to leisure and consumption, both individuals and businesses have the opportunity to shape a future where sustainability and well-being go hand in hand.